Appalam

The Tamil Brahmin pappad — thin, brittle urad dal wafers either roasted directly over an open flame until they blister and char in spots, or deep-fried in oil until they expand and become golden. The roasted version (which Brahmin households prefer as it uses no oil) has a nutty, smoky, complex flavour; the fried version is uniformly crisp and paler. No meal on the Tamil Brahmin banana leaf is considered complete without appalam; it provides the dry, crunchy textural contrast to the liquid-rich curries and rice. The appalam is the first thing placed on the leaf and the last thing removed; it serves as both an appetiser and a palate cleanser. Specialist appalam makers from Papad Brahmin communities supply the restaurant and household trade.