Coconut Chutney

The white chutney — freshly grated coconut ground with green chilli, raw ginger, roasted chana dal, and salt into a smooth, pale-ivory paste thinned with a small amount of water to a thick, flowing consistency. The tempering of mustard seeds, urad dal, dried red chilli, and curry leaves fried in coconut oil or sesame oil is poured over the surface at the last moment. The chutney must be made from freshly grated coconut — stored or desiccated coconut produces a dull, flat version. Served at every South Indian breakfast alongside idli, dosai, and ven pongal; the universal accompaniment that ties the entire South Indian breakfast plate together. The base recipe exists in a hundred slight variations across Tamil Brahmin families — some add tamarind, some roasted cumin, some a small shallot.